Collection Spotlight with Tracy Newkumet Burrows

During the 2020 COVID-19 lockdown and through the reopening afterward, the Coe Center partnered with First American Art Magazine to present an interactive Zoom series in which Native artists discussed artworks in the Coe Collections. Collections Spotlight brought deep dives into objects from the Coe collection to the public from the artist’s perspective. These events were free and open to the public.

Tracy Newkumet Burrows (Caddo/Delaware) launched this series with Episode 1: Tracy Discusses Regalia. Burrows spoke on May 12, 2020, on Caddo regalia. She gave an in-depth explanation about a dush-toh (hourglass-shaped women’s hairpiece) and a Caddo/Delaware pair of beaded moccasins from the Coe collection. Her talk included the history and cultural background of the pieces. She also discussed her own artwork, the Turkey Dance, and Caddo and Delaware cultures on the South Plains.

This hourglass-shaped women’s head ornament is believed to be repurposed as a decorative item for sale. This child-sized piece dates to the early 20th century (1890-1910) and features sewn-on nickel spots in a traditional pattern. Tracy Burrows notes that the center band appears to be a repurposed child’s bracelet, and the ribbons were likely repurposed as well. The back consists of wool felt with a wall-hanging attachment and hanging dyed horsehair. Burrows observes that this piece is smaller than standard size, and that most dust-ohs typically have four layers.

Dust-oh construction varies by family. In Tracy’s family, the process begins with a base featuring a ribbon band to attach to hair. The design piece is then sewn on, sandwiching the ribbon band. The fabric wraps around the headboard, and the wearer’s hair is tied into a bun within the fabric pocket, that is pinned and then wrapped with ribbon.The dust-oh’s hourglass shape reflects the songs of the Turkey Dance and Drum Dance. Tracy explains that it represents an emergence story: the lower portion symbolizes people who remained underground, the middle section represents the plain where people live, and the upper section represents where the Caddo(?) people dwell. Ribbons at the top of the hourglass honor warriors who have passed on, while ribbons at the bottom serve as remembrance of their people. In Tracy’s family, mirrors attached to the ribbons were believed to ward off evil spirits and were not worn at night. Tracy notes that different families maintain various interpretations of the stories associated with the ribbons and mirrors. The piece is worn during the Turkey Dance, which tells a traditional story about Caddo tribal warriors. This dance must be completed before nightfall.

The moccasins display both Caddo and Delaware characteristics, suggesting possible origins from someone with a mixed background. Traditional Caddo elements include beading along the back seam, which is both decorative and has a seam-covering purpose. Designs on the red flaps have edge beading, and the ribbon work features a three-bead-and-space pattern. The beaded flower designs represent traditional Delaware artistry. These style elements commonly connect to songs and language.

The floral pattern on the toe appears in both Caddo and Delaware traditions (Tracy notes a similar design on a pair from her grandmother). These single-seam moccasins are crafted from deer hide and appear unworn, with no visible damage to the soles. Both Caddo and Delaware styles traditionally construct their moccasins with the fuzzy side out and smooth side in, significantly extending durability—lasting four years instead of one year, according to Tracy’s experience.

Between men’s and women’s moccasins, size typically serves as the main distinguishing feature rather than design elements. However, Tracy notes that women’s moccasins tend to feature more floral patterns, while men’s may incorporate other designs, such as a rattlesnake pattern. The incorporation of silk ribbons in these traditional designs began during the period of European trade along the Mississippi River.

For for more information:

• Caddo Mounds State Historic Site
• Caddo (Kadohadacho), Oklahoma Historical Society
• Hasinai, Oklahoma Historical Society
• Delaware, Western, Oklahoma Historical Society

Publications:

• Hasinai: A Traditional History of the Caddo Confederacy, by Vynola Beaver Newkumet and Howard L. Meredith
• Traditions of Caddo, by George A. Dorsey with an introduction by Wallace L. Chafe (University Press, 1977.
• Caddo Indians Where We Come From by Cecile Elkins Carter (University of Oklahoma Press, 1995.