Description

In today’s world, society is increasingly aware of its role in ethical consumption. Designers are now reflecting on issues such as fast fashion, the exotic materials trade, and sustainable practices to ensure their business remains viable. An unsuspecting, yet promising solution to these environmental dilemmas is fish skin leather. This versatile material offers durability, water resistance, and a visually unique product. While fish skin leather is a longstanding practice among many Indigenous communities, the art form has diminished significantly due to colonization. Today, Indigenous artisans and fashion designers are bridging their work to market fish skin leather as a viable alternative to conventional leathers. This collaboration not only serves as an act of cultural preservation, but also progresses the fashion industry towards more sustainable practices.

For over 7,500 years, the Alutiiq, also known as Sugpiaq, resided in the coastal region of south-central Alaska. Regarded as one of eight Alaska Native peoples, their homelands span Prince William Sound, the outer Kenai Peninsula, the Kodiak Archipelago, and the Alaska Peninsula. 

Russian colonization and assimilation policies sought to eradicate their cultural heritage and linguistic autonomy. The term Aleut, meaning “coastal dweller,” was the blanket term Russian fur traders used to describe Native peoples of southwestern Alaska. However, the term Sugpiaq, meaning “real person,” was the ancestral name used before Western contact. The Sugpiaq pronunciation of Aleut is Alutiiq. Elders might prefer to be called Aleut, a term ingrained from their youth, while others may prefer to reclaim their ancestral name and identify as Sugpiaq. These preferences vary among individuals, but it is essential to recognize and respect that the people now have the power to choose their own cultural identifiers. 

Historical violence and the rise of industrial goods nearly halted traditional techniques like fish skin leather. Despite these adversities, the Sugpiaq people persevere and are now focused on reviving their lost cultural practices. Lalla Williams, a skilled skin sewer from Kodiak Island, educates her community on creating artistic goods from animal hides and fibers. Her work fosters a deep connection with the land, sea, and ancestral heritage. Her creation of this fish purse demonstrates how traditional techniques can be adapted for modern use. 

With pressing environmental concerns, consumers are seeking eco-friendly and ethically sourced alternatives. Fish skin leather offers a sustainable alternative to conventional leather. Cow leather is known to have a harmful tanning process involving toxic chemicals. Meanwhile, the tanning process of fish skin uses few or no chemicals, mainly deriving from natural plant-based methods. 

Animal rights activists have criticized the unethical sourcing of exotic leathers, such as those from alligators and snakes. These endangered animals are often harvested specifically for their skin, a practice that typically neglects the use of the rest of the animal’s body. In contrast, fish skin leather is sourced from fish skins that would otherwise be discarded by the fishing industry. For instance, Williams used sea bass skin from a local restaurant to create her purse. By repurposing these by-products, fish skin leather helps reduce waste and supports ethical standards. 

Initiatives such as the European Union-funded FishSkinLab and the Food and Agriculture Organization’s Blue Growth program support the development of fish skin leather to preserve Indigenous practices and promote environmentally sound alternatives. Though it may take time for the fashion industry to fully embrace fish skin leather, luxury brands like Christian Dior and John Galliano are already taking action. They have collaborated with the FishSkinLab to incorporate fish skin leather into their collections. Each piece of fish skin leather features a unique pattern and texture, making each product truly one of a kind.

As the world treks into the sustainable fashion market, fish skin leather emerges as a leading contender for pivotal change. Its eco-friendly qualities make it an ideal choice for designers aiming to create beautiful and resourceful products. Indigenous communities, such as the Sugpiaq, are experiencing a cultural revival through the continued practice of traditional arts like fish skin leather. Collaborative projects like FishSkinLab, exemplify how dedicated individuals across various fields are united in driving fundamental change. This framework underscores the global commitment to fostering a culturally enriched and sustainable future.

Sources: 

• “Alutiiq People.” Alutiiq Museum and Archaeological Repository, February 8, 2024. https://alutiiqmuseum.org/alutiiq-people/
• “Fishskinlab.” FISHSKINLAB. Accessed August 1, 2024. https://fishskinlab.com
• “Lalla Williams.” Alutiiq Museum and Archaeological Repository, January 30, 2024. https://alutiiqmuseum.org/alutiiq-people/art/artist-gallery/lalla-williams/
• Lindsey. “Experimental Archaeology: Fish Leather.” By the Book, July 24, 2020. https://bythebook.uark.edu/2020/07/24/experimental-archaeology-fish-leather
• Palomino, Elisa, Katrín María Káradóttir, Lotta Rhame, and Joseph Boon. Indigenous Arctic fish skin clothing traditions: Cultural and …, 2019. https://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/16039/2/Cumulus-Rovaniemi-%20Indigenous%20Arctic%20Fishskin%20clothing%20traditions-%20Cultural%20and%20ecological%20impacts%20on%20Fashion%20Higher%20Educat.pdf
• Pullar, Gordon L. “The Sugpiaq (Alutiiq) People and Their Culture.” Smithsonian Learning Lab, December 20, 2019. https://learninglab.si.edu/collections/the-sugpiaq-alutiiq-people-and-their-culture/tAatLPcTDsVq7K46
• “Sewing.” Alutiiq Museum and Archaeological Repository, March 22, 2024. https://alutiiqmuseum.org/alutiiq-people/art/arts-blog/sewing